Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Din Tai Fung - Shanghai Restaurant Review

"Patiently" Awaiting My Feast
If you are visiting Shanghai and looking to taste some of the local delicacies, xiaolong bao (a type of dumpling) should definitely be on your checklist of things to eat.  This delectable dish has long been a favorite of locals and expats alike, and most people agree that the best in the city can be found at Din Tai Fung.

There are 7 branches scattered throughout Shanghai, and this review is for the Xin Tian Di location.  The restaurant is located on the second story of a high end shopping mall in the famous Xin Tian Di area. Xin Tian Di is a very high end district and has long been a popular place for expats and some of the more affluent locals.  There are plenty of high end boutiques and shops to visit in the area surrounding the restaurant so it makes for a nice way to spend an afternoon.

As far as Chinese restaurants are concerned this is definitely up-scale.  The decorations, booths, and the staff attire all help create a warm and pleasant atmosphere.  The walls are all covered with murals of famous Chinese actors and musicians with their autographs (not sure if they are real).  The main part of the restaurant has a very open feel and the kitchen wall that separates the dining area and the kitchen is a giant window. Feel free to spend a few minutes watching the chefs prepare your meal after you’ve ordered.
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Beautiful Presentation
The menu is pretty large and the prices high (I can imagine rent in this area is off the charts), but the scrumptiousness of the food certainly makes up for it.  There are loads of different dumplings (all of which are steamed) to choose from all filled with various toppings.  You can also get soups, fried rice, and dessert. 

We chose the standard pork xiaolong bao, the mini xiaolong bao, the truffle xiaolong bao, a bowl of wonton soup, Pork and glutinous rice shao-mai, cooked sugar pea shoots, and chilled coconut milk with assorted fresh fruit for dessert. It wasn’t a long wait before the first dishes started to arrive, presented in the bamboo steamers they were cooked in. I couldn’t wait to try the dish that the restaurant became famous for, the pork xiaolong bao.

They were simply amazing! The beauty of the xiaolong bao is that it’s shape, and the fact that it is sealed, doesn’t allow any of the juices to escape, thus retaining the flavor of the meat.  Each dumpling explodes in your mouth giving your tongue a bath in delicious pork juices. I personally felt the flavor of the dumpling by itself was enough, but if you wish you can dip them in soy sauce, black vinegar, spicy chili-paste, or any combination you can cook up.

Pork Xiaolong Bao
The only bad part of this dish is that it only came with 5 (you can order the larger portion which comes with 10), which of course I had to share. This is why I’m glad I ordered the mini xiao long bao.  They taste just as amazing as their larger counterparts and go perfect in the wonton soup.  The soup is a clean chicken broth and the delicious pork wontons perfectly absorb the broth. 

Then came the glutinous rice and pork shao-mai, the cooked sugar pea shoots, and the truffle and pork xiao long bao.  The vegetables were pretty good but a bit oily so if you are looking for something a bit lighter you might be better off trying something else. The truffle and pork xiaolong bao were very good but extremely rich.  My wife doesn’t like truffle so I had to tackle the whole dish. Normally I wouldn’t complain about this but they were too rich, even for my tastes.  If you absolutely love truffle you will probably have no problem downing the entire order, but I was only able to eat a couple of them.

We Got Dumplings for Days!
The glutinous rice and pork shao-mai was the only dish I didn’t care for on this particular visit.  They were bland and dry, which is a stark contrast to the juicy flavorful xiaolong bao.  Maybe they weren’t cooked properly, as I’ve never had shao-mai before, but I know I will not be ordering them again at this restaurant.

For dessert we shared a bowl of chilled coconut milk with a variety of fresh fruit. This was a splendid way to finish the meal.  The sweet creamy coconut milk was a nice refreshing treat, and can be an excellent way to cool down in the extreme heat that Shanghai has during the summer.

Overall I was extremely satisfied with the meal, even though it commanded a much higher price than your average Chinese food restaurant in Shanghai.  If you’ve never had xiaolong bao before and are looking to give it a try, why not go for the best.  The staff was extremely friendly and the service was superb! I highly recommend Din Tai Fung! Check Din Tai Fung’s website for locations and hours of operation.

Rating:
Price: $$$
Value: 3/5
Taste: 4.5/5
Service: 4/5
Selection: 3/5


Tuesday, June 12, 2012

Tanzhe Temple and Pagoda Forest - Beijing

One of the Halls in Tanzhe Temple
A city the size of Beijing is bound to have many hidden gems that escape the itineraries of adventure-seeking travelers. The Tanzhe temple (潭柘寺 Tanzhe si in Chinese) tucked in the hills on the western outskirts of the city is one of these hidden gems.  If you are planning a trip to Beijing anytime in the near future and can spare the better part of the day, this temple and the adjacent pagoda forest are well worth the trip.

View of the Temple Complex
The Tanzhe temple's history is rich and spans multiple dynasties starting with its construction during the Jin Dynasty (265-420 AD), although most of the remaining structures were built during the Ming and Qing Dynasties.  This makes Tanzhe one of the oldest temples in Beijing and has long been regarded as one of the most important temples in China's history. 
A Statue in a Dried-up Pond

One of my favorite aspects of this temple was the secluded nature of it.  Due to the distance from the city, most of the visitors are local.  It is easy to wander around the complex and find secluded places where you can just take in the surroundings and enjoy the beauty of the buildings and natural surroundings.

Make sure to climb up the main steps to top of the temple compound to catch an amazing view of the surrounding hills.  Going around the outskirts of the temple complex you can find some beautiful statues that look like they were once in small ponds at some point during the temple's long history.  You can also stroll through the pagoda forest near the temple that contains pagodas built from the Jin Dynasty all the way through the Qing Dynasty.
The Adjacent Pagoda Forest

How to get there:  If you aren't worried about paying an exorbitantly high cab fare you can simply find the closest cab and tell the driver to take you to the temple (just show them the Chinese name for it listed above). If you're on a more limited budget you can take the subway to the western end of line 1 (Pingguo Yuan station). Admission is 35 RMB per ticket and is open from 8am - 5pm in the summer and 8:30am - 4:30pm in the winter.

Have you been here? Sound off in the comments below and tell us about it!




Monday, June 11, 2012

Temple of Heaven - Beijing

Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests
The Temple of Heaven , 天壇 (Tian Tan) in Chinese, has long been one of the major attractions for people of all ages when they come to Beijing.  The Temple of Heaven has long been one of my favorite places to visit in Beijing due to the plethora of cultural experiences that can be had there.

The Temple of Heaven was once the religious complex where the emperors of the Qing and Ming dynasties visited for annual prayers and ceremonies for good harvests.  Some of the main attractions within the park include the iconic Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, the Imperial Vault of Heaven, and the Circular Mound Altar.

When most people think of the Temple of Heaven they picture the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests.  This is the main attraction to the park and it is easy to see why.  The massive Hall sits on a tier of circular marble slabs.  Traditional Chinese music (most of which feature the ancient gu qin) can be heard from the speakers that resemble old lamps that surround the outskirts.  My favorite time to visit is during the week towards the late afternoon (just before the attractions inside the Temple of Heaven park start to close).  Usually most of the visitors have already left so it offers a chance to have a more personal experience, almost what it might have been like for the emperors visiting hundreds of years ago.

Imperial Vault of Heaven
The Imperial Vault of Heaven is worth a visit as well mainly because the circular wall surrounding the buildings contained within is known as the echoing wall.  It is not uncommon to see tourists standing along the guard rail shouting at the wall trying to hear their own echo.  Usually there is an extremely long line of people (especially during the peak travel times) waiting to climb up the stairs to get a peak into the main building.  There's not much to see in there (just a throne and some old furniture) so unless you absolutely have to see everything you will probably be fine skipping it unless you happen to visit when there's relatively few tourists there.

Tourists Shouting into the Famous
Wall of Echos
Just across from the Imperial Vault of Heaven is the Circular Mound Altar.  The round slabs of marble in the middle are elaborately decorated with dragons carved along the guard rail.  On the top tier in the middle of the platform is a small elevated circle.  This was once believed to be the center of the earth (which coincides with the ancient Chinese belief of China as being the center of the world). Throngs of tourists eagerly await for their chance to stand on the center of the Altar and have their picture taken so don't be afraid to just jump in there and have your own picture taken.

The Fabled "Center" of the World
Towards the West of the complex is the lesser-known Hall of Abstinence.  Most people seem to skip this attraction as it isn't within a close proximity to the other main attractions and it isn't featured on the combination ticket  This hidden gem, so to speak, has some interesting things to see in it.  There is a hall way that contains the portraits of past emperors and some cool historic artifacts.  You can also see several "wild" cats that have made the moat surrounding the Hall of Abstinence their home.

Circular Mound Altar
Of all of the main historic attractions in Beijing, it has been my impression that the Temple of Heaven brings the most local visitors, and thus more of the local culture can be experienced here.  Due to it's convenient location, cheap entrance fee for the elderly, and relatively late closing time (for the larger park area) hundreds of locals gather daily to play card games, sing traditional patriotic songs, dance, and play traditional Chinese instruments.  It is a blast to join in on one of the local favorite games (jianzi) that closely resembles hacky sac.

Locals Singing Patriotic Songs
There's not quite as much to see as the Summer Palace and the Forbidden City so if you can spare 3 or 4 hours you should be able to cover most of it.  No trip to Beijing is complete without a visit to the Temple of Heaven.  You can access it via subway (line 5) or by cab.  The cost for the tickets are: 10-15 RMB (depending on the season) for the basic entrance ticket or 30-35 RMB for the combination ticket.

Have you been to the Temple of Heaven before? If so sound off in the comments below and let us know what you thought of it!


Sunday, June 10, 2012

Summer Palace - Beijing

Once the summer retreat for the imperial family, the Summer Palace or 颐和园 (Yi He Yuan) in Chinese is a popular destination for tourists and locals alike. The compound, which became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998, spans a massive 2.9 square kilometers and is an absolute must-see attraction for any trip to Beijing.  The beautiful lake and natural surroundings make a for a pleasant visit during any season.

The park is located on the north-west side of Beijing and can be accessed via cab or subway off of the recently constructed line 4. Due to the massive scope of the park and the vast number of attractions within the park I recommend at least 6 hours to thoroughly enjoy everything the park has to offer.

The park offers a fairly large lake on the south side of the compound that wraps around the the north side.  During the warmer months visitors can rent paddle boats to cruise around the main part of the lake, or can buy tickets to take larger boats around the west side of the compound the the ancient market street (Suzhou Street) near the north gate. 


As a tip, if you do decide to take the passenger boat I would recommend purchasing the tickets from the ticket booth near the infamous Marble Boat (tickets here will cost about 40 RMB per person as opposed to being charged 180 RMB on Suzhou Street).

Starting at the south gate you can quickly visit the small island that has a gorgeous view of the palace and then hike back along the eastern bank of the lake and visit the historic theater that offers daily performances featuring different acts that might have been performed for the emperors during the Ming and Qing dynasties.  From there I would recommend hiking up any of the various trails that lead up the mountain around the west side of the temple and palace. 

This is one of my favorite parts of the park as these trails offer some seclusion from the throngs of tourists that tend to stick to the main attractions.  Every once in a while you will come across couples or families having picnics and enjoying the tranquil surroundings.   Once you make your way to the peak you can visit a Buddhist temple and the Hall of Burning Incense. Make sure you walk out the front gate of the Hall of Burning Incense for a spectacular view of the lake and historic buildings below. The view alone here makes the trip worth it.

Then making your way down the north side of the Buddhist temple you can visit the famous Suzhou Street which houses a bunch of souvenir shops and a few restaurants.  This area of the park is stunning and it would be a great shame if anyone misses it.  

Finally, don't forget to head back around the west part of the lake to visit the Marble Boat and take a stroll down the seemingly never-ending coridor before leaving the park.

Tickets to the park can be purchased for 20-30 RMB (depending on the season) for the entrance fee alone or 50-60 RMB for the combination ticket (which includes entrance tickets to some of the smaller attractions within the park).

Planning a trip to the Summer Palace? Share your experiences in the comments below!

















Kaleido - Shanghai Theater Show Review

Kaleido, a nightly acrobatic performance put on by Shanghai Era Entertainment Ltd., can be seen daily at the Shanghai Gong Theater near People's Square in Shanghai. For those looking for something to do in the evening the stunning acrobatics, lights, and music are sure to entertain people of all ages.

The show unfolds through the eyes of an elderly woman as she flips through a photo book an recounts memories of times past. The various acts highlight various acrobatic feats that might be familiar to those who have seen acrobatic shows in the past.  This does not make the show any less impressive however.  

The lighting, special effects, and music have been carefully crafted and selected to help the viewers lose themselves in the performance.  I only wish I could somehow get the soundtrack as I found myself humming along with some of the more upbeat background songs. This show, much like other acrobatic shows, does not skimp on the thrills.  The talented acrobats perform feats that the less-flexible people that myself would surely deem impossible.
One of my only complaints came from the perceived lack of enthusiasm from some of the performers. At times I could hear the performers counting down for their fellow acrobats which took out of the performance and back into reality.  I felt like I was watching a rehearsal at times, which was a bit disheartening. I guess this could be attributed to the repetitiveness of doing the same performance every day for months at a time. I happened to go on a week night so maybe those are treated more as rehearsals and save the showmanship for the weekend performances.
If you are planning on visiting during the week it may be to your advantage to sit somewhere in the back half of the theater or on the second level. My wife and I purchased tickets for the third row so that might have made it easier for me to notice these minor distractions.  

Verdict: If you haven't seen a Chinese acrobat show and you have a spare evening in Shanghai I would definitely recommend this show. If you have already been to acrobat shows in the past, and are not a fanatic, you aren't missing out on anything ground breaking.

3 back-flipping acrobats out of 5.

Address (Chinese): 延安东路433号
Address (English): 433 Yan'an Dong L
Phone Number: +86 021 66525468

Tickets can be purchased at the box office and most major hotels can help you arrange tickets as well. They cost ranges from 80 RMB per person for the seats in the back of the first floor to 580 RMB per person for the premium seats.

Have you been to the show before? Seen any acrobat shows that you feel are must-see?  Sound off in the comments below!

Big Bamboo - Shanghai Restaurant Review

Located on Hong Feng Road in Pudong, Big Bamboo is a favorite hangout for locals and expats alike.  Founded over 7 years ago, Big Bambo's friendly atmosphere and familiar design will offer the many expats who live and work in the area a brief glimpse of what life back home was like.

The menu offers a wide variety of foods from burgers and sandwiches to Tex-Mex favorites like chimichangas and enchiladas. For those looking for a nice place to hangout with friends or family, Big Bamboo offers 2 pool tables as well.

The food is pretty expensive when compared to local Chinese cuisine, but is pretty comparable to other Western restaurants.  Prices range from 50 RMB for Appetizers to over 130 RMB for entrees.  Drinks range from 30 RMB (for a glass of soda) to 50RMB for cocktails and other mixed drinks.

On this particular visit we tried the chimichangas with shredded chicken, the New England clam chowder, and chicken tenders.  The chimichangas included a side of re fried beans, mexican rice, and sour cream.  The chimichanga was absolutely delicious. The chicken was succulent and spicy, and the flaky tortilla crust added a welcome crunch.  The sides however left much to be desired.  The beans were sour (a first for me) and the rice was pretty bland. 

The clam chowder was pretty tasty too, although if you're looking for the taste of the authentic New England variety you will be disappointed.  The soup was hearty with plenty of clams and potatoes, but not worth the 50 RMB price tag.

Our last dish, the chicken tenders (more like small strips of chicken that have been breaded and fried) was the least impressive of the dishes.  The chicken strips, which were more like fries, were tough and dry.  The "honey mustard" dipping sauce was nothing more than honey didn't save the dish and at 45 RMB, was a total waste of money.

The service was slightly above what you would find in a typical Chinese restaurant but well below what Westerners are accustomed to back home.  The waitresses only came by to take our order and bring the food.

I have had other dishes from this restaurant and have really enjoyed them (particularly the burgers) but it seems that consistency might be an issue here.  If you really want a taste of home, you might be better off at Blue Frog.

Price: $$$
Service: 1.5/5
Selection: 3.5/5
Taste: 3/5
Value: 3.5/5

Address (Chinese): 红枫路 381号
Address (English): 381 hongfeng lu

Gulangyu Island - Xiamen

People Gathering Around the Island Map
 Planning a trip to Xiamen? Well then Gulangyu Island (鼓浪屿 in Chinese) is a must see destination!  It is a beautiful (albeit crowded) island filled with shops, sights, cafes and restaurants.  

Once you get off the ferry you will arrive at a giant stone map of the island and you can either head left towards the famous statue of Zheng Chenggong (famous military leader who defended the island against the Dutch East India Company in 1662) or you can head right into the rustic old town for some dining, shopping, or sightseeing.  

View from the Ferry
 I really loved the colonial charm of the city.  The Victorian style of architecture found on the island harken back to its colonial past as this was once a place of residence for Westerners in the mid 1800's.  Gulangyu is a nice escape from the bustle of the city since there are no cars allowed on the island. The beautiful cobblestone streets and narrow corridors will have you wandering around the island for hours.

Zheng Chenggong Statue
When I visited I unfortunately did not have time to visit the statue so I went straight into the town. I would recommend spending at least 4 hours here as there are a lot of sights to take in. The town is littered with cute little souvenir shops that contain everything you can possibly imagine spending your hard earned money on.  Due to its close proximity to Taiwan you can also find loads of imported Taiwanese products.

Menu from a Cafe on the Island
If your feeling tired or famished from all of the shopping stop for a break in any one of the hundreds of stylishly decorated cafes or restaurants.  Any visitors to the island must get some fresh beef (spicy) or pork (sweet) jerky that can be purchased for 100 RMB (this will get you 4 sealed bags of jerky in a pink zipped satchel). This jerky is highly coveted and well known throughout China. If you want to find the shop the address is Longtou Rd no. 95 (龙头路95号 in Chinese). Just look for the little shop with a constant crowd of people waiting outside.


Souvenir Shop in Xiamen
 Some of the other attractions on the island include a piano museum, bird sanctuary, a museum, and a beautiful garden. If you visit during the summer months you can also rent paddle boats and jet ski's on the western part of the island.

How to get there:  Simply take a taxi and let the driver know that you want to go to 鼓浪屿 (Gulangyu) and you will be dropped off near the dock where you can catch a ferry (one way: 3 RMB +1 RMB if you want to sit down on the upper deck). Ferries leave regularly every 30-60 minutes and can get quite crowded during the peak travel seasons.