Ming Xiaoling Tomb - Nanjing

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Ming Xiaoling Tomb - Nanjing, China

 The Ming Xiaoling tomb (named one of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites in 2000) in the Purple Mountain park provides an amazing opportunity to see and understand an important aspect of Chinese history.  This Ming tomb is the final resting place for the emperor HongWu, who founded the Ming Dynasty in 1368, the only Ming emperor to be buried outside of Beijing (the remainder of the Ming Dynasty emperors were buried in Beijing after HongWu’s son moved the capital from Nanjing to Beijing).

The "Sacred Way"

The entrance to the Ming Xiaoling park commands a steep entrance fee (70 RMB per ticket), which would not be worth it if it were not for the beautiful park and other attractions within the compound.  Be prepared to spend a good 3-4 hours here as there is a lot of ground to cover. Starting at the main entrance is the “Sacred Way” which leads up to the tomb of the emperor. The path is lined with massive stone statues of various pairs of animals (elephants, camels, lions, qilin, etc) and pairs of stone guards and scholars) leading up to the base of the mountain. 

The path is absolutely stunning and the natural surroundings provide a peaceful and serene atmosphere. If you are lucky enough to visit in the fall you will be treated with the changing of the leaves on the trees that adorn the path and fill the park (consequently tourism traffic during this time of year is insane).

Ming Xiaoling - Nanjing, China

Once you arrive at the end of the sacred way you will cross a bridge that leads to the main building of the mausoleum.  The design of the building follows the traditional Ming architectural style.  I could not believe how massive it was while standing at the bottom entrance.  Hiking up a staircase tunneled through the middle of the building you can walk around the top platform of the building for a nice view of the Nanjing skyline.

On the backside of the main building is a path that leads up to the peak of the mountain.  When you arrive at the top you are treated to an amazing view of the entire Purple Mountain park area and the entire city of Nanjing.  You can either hike back down to the park area or take a cable car down to the entrance of the Purple Mountain Park.

Since this will take you out of the Ming Xiaoling area (and remember, you paid 70 RMB for your ticket) I would either recommend that you head back down the path and explore the rest of the beautiful Ming Xiaoling park or explore it before you visit the Ming tomb.

A beautiful pond in the Ming Xiaoling Park

The area near the “Sacred Way” contains a recently renovated park that provides some beautiful scenery as well as some other historical attractions.  There is a massive green park area that is an excellent place to have a picnic or just enjoy the afternoon.  Near the animal statue part of the path is a neat little compound that celebrates another great emperor in China’s history, Sun Quan. Sun Quan ruled during the famous Three Kingdoms period of China (he died in 252 AD) and there is some cool historical information about him provided here as well as a massive statue of him.

Statue of Emperor Sun Quan

The rest of the park is a collection of beautiful ponds, pavilions, and paths.  There is even a recently constructed outdoor theater (I wasn’t able to find any information about any performances however) that would be an excellent way to pass the evening.

A visit to this Ming tomb is a must for any visitors to Nanjing not only because of the historical significance of the site, but because it is located in an extremely beautiful mountain park. It is even worth a visit if you have been to the Ming Tomb’s in Beijing. I absolutely loved this park, and its close proximity to other attractions and historical sites makes it a perfect way to spend the day.  After visiting the tomb check out Sun Yatsen’s mausoleum, Xuanwu lake, or the Nanjing Botanical Garden.

How to get there:

From Sun Yatsen’s Mausoleum – take the tourist trolley located at the base of the mausoleum for 5 RMB

From the city center – take a cab and ask to go to 明孝陵 (Ming Xiaoling)

Bus – Take Tourism Bus no. 3 or city buses no. 315 or 20 and get off at Ming Xiaoling

Hours of Operation:

Daily until 6:30pm

Entrance Fee: 70 RMB (Free entrance to the park after 6:30pm but the tomb and other attractions are closed)

On the "Sacred Way"

The Coffee Shop - Zhouzhuang Restaurant Review

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Food choices in Zhouzhuang are quite limited in their diversity, and unless you are looking for seafood and local cuisine, there really isn’t much you can do.  Fortunately for Westerners who are weary to eat at restaurants that don’t tend to place a high priority on sanitation, there is the Coffee Shop.

I have always been a bit hesitant eating in Zhouzhuang after my first encounter with food there back in 2009. After wandering around scoping out the various restaurants my friends and I picked the one that we felt might be the safest to eat at (I couldn’t have been more wrong). After getting some pretty nasty food poisoning (which ruined my last day of vacation in Shanghai) I vowed never to eat in Zhouzhuang again, opting to bring snacks with me for every subsequent day trip to the village.

On my last visit however, I decided to stay overnight for the first time. I’ve heard so many wonderful things about Zhouzhuang at night which is impossible to experience unless you have your own car (or hire one) as the tourist buses all head back for Shanghai in the late afternoon. This being the case, I decided to give Zhouzhuang’s culinary offering one more try.

After checking in at our hostel, the Longxing Inn, we walked around the main commercial street to check out some restaurants.  Not far from the hostel we found the Coffee Shop which had advertisements for pizza and other western foods.  The outside of the hostel is beautifully decorated and inviting (the little window sill is pretty awesome).  After walking inside the main entrance I immediately fell in love with the place.

The lobby is very reminiscent of the trendy hostels I’ve managed to find all over the country.  Next to the entrance is a notice board with leaflets and fliers from other awesome hostels in other parts of the country (definitely worth looking into if you’ll be traveling around and are looking for cool places to stay on a budget). The restaurant and bar are open, comfortable, and tastefully decorated.  This is an awesome place to hang out!  The most coveted place in the restaurant is a table with 2 very comfortable couches and is situated at a large window looking into their small, yet beautiful, courtyard.

The menus, which are black construction paper, folded accordion style, with neon and white crayon writing (a perfect fit for the trendy atmosphere) are pretty cool as well.  They don’t have an incredibly large selection though, just a few sandwiches, pizzas, pastas, breakfast choices, and a few Chinese dishes.  I opted to try one of their pizzas (which ran about 35 RMB) and my wife tried the grilled ham and cheese sandwich (about 25 RMB).

The pizza, which was your standard 9 inches, size wasn’t that bad. It wasn’t the best pizza I’ve had, but given the location, definitely worth the money.  I ordered the Hawaiian pizza which had your standard ham and pineapple on it, but also had corn on it too.  It took a little getting used to, but once I got over it, it was actually quite good. The cheese and the sauce were a tad disappointing however.  The cheese wasn’t the best quality and was quite rubbery and bland, but what am I supposed to expect for 35 RMB?

The sandwich was pretty disappointing though. The sandwich should have been called “warmed up ham on bread with a slice of cheese and salad dressing on it.”  We were expecting a traditional grilled cheese sandwich with ham inside for added deliciousness.  The salad dressing definitely didn’t help the situation either.  Definitely avoid this sandwich!

What I loved about this place was just how "at home" I felt while there. The service is well above your typical Chinese restaurant. The staff is all very friendly and if you can speak the language, are always happy to chat with.  The hostel also has 2 very friendly dogs that live on the premises and will roam around the hostel and restaurant adding to that homely feel.

The restaurant also has a full bar and offers a variety of mixed beverages, local beer, juices, and sodas.  The restaurant can get quite busy during the peak lunch period (between 11:00 am and 1:30pm) but was almost empty in the evening.  This is the perfect place to wind down and throw back a cold one after a long day of exploring the village.  Highly recommended!

Rating:

Price: $

Value: 3.5/5
Taste: 3/5

Service: 4/5

Selection: 2.5/5

How to get there:

I can’t seem to find an address for the restaurant so starting from the Longxing Inn Hostel which is at 80 Beishi Jie, walk north along Beishi Jie (stay on the same side as the hostel) until you come across the Coffee Shop. It should be about 50 meters or so away from Longxing Inn.

**The Coffee Shop is actually a hostel as well, and this review is simply for the restaurant contained inside as I have not personally stayed overnight in one of their rooms.

Sun Yatsen's Mausoleum - Nanjing

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Statue of Dr. Sun Yatsen

Regarded as the father of modern China, Sun Yatsen holds a special place in the hearts of Chinese the world over.  When he died in March of 1925 he was buried in a beautifully elaborate mausoleum in Nanjing.  He was a key figure in the 1911 Revolution that marked the end of dynastic rule and the beginning of the Republic of China. He is revered both in mainland China and in Taiwan.

The mausoleum’s design was the result of a contest held shortly after his death in which Chinese designers around the world submitted plans as a part of a competition held by the government.

It is a beautiful design that is reminiscent of the old imperial style tombs and seems to mark the end of traditional China, ushering in a new era for the country.  The tomb is located in the Purple Mountain park in Central Nanjing and can be easily accessed from anywhere in the city center.

Lion Statue in front of Sun's famous saying, "天下为公“

If you take a cab or bus you will arrive at the parking lot near the south gate and can either hike your way up to the main entrance or pay for a ride on one of the trolleys that will take you up a scenic route to the gate which will set you back 5 RMB per person.

Once you enter the main gates you will work your way through a small shopping district that has various trinkets and souvenirs as well as a few eateries and snack carts.  Pushing your way through the small commercial area you will come to the beginning of the long hike up to the tomb.  I really loved the beautiful natural scenery that surrounded the different structures and buildings that make up the mausoleum. It is easy to see how highly the Chinese regard Sun Yatsen from the great care for the facilities and the reverence people show towards him.

The main hall at the mausoleum

As you make your way up the steps you can see tons of beautifully ornate flower pots and lion statues. One of the gates has Dr. Sun's famous saying "天下为公“ which means "Everything under Heaven belongs to Everyone." At the top of the compound is a structure that houses a giant statue of Dr. Sun. You can purchase flowers to be placed in front of his tomb and make your way through the building to pay your respects. It was interesting to watch people as they made their way through the room. It is almost as if they were praying to him and due to the seemingly sacred nature of the venue, pictures inside while inside the hall are prohibited. 

A lion statue on the stairway to Dr. Sun's tomb

The hike all the way up to the top is rewarded with a breathtaking view of the mausoleum area, the park, and a beautiful view of Nanjing’s skyline (providing you attend on a clear, smog-free day).  I must have spent a good 45 minutes just sitting on one of the many benches on the upper platform just looking out over the park and the city.  I really enjoyed this place!

Make sure you plan an entire day here as after you finish visiting Dr. Sun’s mausoleum you can visit one of the many other historical sites and attractions in the Purple Mountain Park.  At the base of the compound (near the entrance gates) you can take a trolley to the Ming Xiaoling mausoleum (the only Ming emperor to be buried outside of Beijing) and then hit up the Nanjing Botanical Garden or Xuanwu Lake.

How to get there:

Cab – Once in a cab ask to go to中山陵 (Zhong shanling).

Bus – either take Bus no. 9 or Nanjing’s Tourist Bus No. 1 and get off at the Mausoleum stop.

Entrance Fee:

Entrance to the mausoleum is free

Hours of Operation:

Daily from 8:30 – 5:00 (except for November 12, Dr. Sun’s birthday, which is 10:00 – 5:00).

Please note that the Sacrificial Hall and the Burial room are closed on Mondays for maintenance. 

The Great Wall of China - Jinshanling and Simatai

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One of the main highlights of any vacation in China is undoubtedly the Great Wall of China.  The wall, which became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987 and one of the 7 Ancient Wonders of the World, attracts millions of visitors each year.  The wall was originally thought to be 5,500 miles long and after a recent effort to confirm its length the number has actually more than doubled to 13,171 miles long.

In an effort to preserve the wall and attract more tourists the government has approved various sections of the wall to undergo restoration projects.  These restored parts of the wall offer a glimpse into what the wall might have looked like when it was being actively used to keep Mongolian raiders outside of the country.

The most famous of these sections is Badaling which also happens to be the most visited portion of the wall. While this is certainly a great experience, I feel that the experiences at some of the more remote and less commercialized are much more valuable.  Badaling is packed with tourists and you will constantly be surrounded by people unless you hike well out of the way.  By contrast a visit to Jinshanling and Simatai will be a much more personal experience (although this may not be the case in a few years as more and more people are choosing to visit this section each year).

When I first visited back in November of 2008 the group of friends I was traveling with were the only visitors on the wall that we say for the vast majority of the day.  My most recent trip in October of last year was still very much a personal experience but there were noticeably more tourists here than my first visit.

What makes the Great Wall such a great experience is that there is no perfect season to visit it. Each season offers a unique experience and beauty which changes as the year progresses. If you are able to visit Simatai and Jinshanling make sure you dedicate an entire day to it. The hike is long but worth it as you make your way up and down the mountainous terrain passing from watchtower to watchtower.

If I had one complaint about this section is that as more and more tourists have visited some of the local farmers have taken to selling souvenirs and t-shirts (With “I climbed the Great Wall” written across the chest). It wouldn’t be so annoying if they didn’t follow you along the hike for what seems like an eternity. They are relentless, and it doesn’t get any better if you buy something from one of them. If you buy something from one, all of the others will think they will be able to sell you something as well and will NEVER leave you alone.

Although you can buy snacks and bottled water at the little touristy village at the start of Jinshanling (at much higher prices than if you buy them in Beijing before you head out), I recommend that you bring plenty of bottled water and some snacks with you as it is easy to get dehydrated out there.  I did notice that some farmers have posted up in a few of the watchtowers along the way and will sell you drinks at exponentially higher prices (but if you are looking for a cold beer in the middle of nowhere, where else are you going to go, right?).

When choosing how to get to the wall I would take some time to ask the travel agency a few questions.  For my first visit I went with a small language school that I was taking classes from (The Hutong School).  This was wonderful because we arranged our own transportation and operated on our own schedule. We were out there as long as we wanted and were in no pressure to hurry our way along the wall. 

For my second visit I went with a travel group from one of the famous hostels located on Nanluoguxiang. The other people we were with were friendly enough (made friends with some pretty cool guys from Poland) but the tour guide was rushing us the entire way. It was much harder to really enjoy some of the beautiful panoramic sights that are to be had from the tallest watchtowers.  Just make sure you ask the travel agency how long you will have to be on the wall and if there is a set time that you have to meet at the pickup point.

Visiting the Great Wall has been a childhood dream of mine and I can wholeheartedly say that it lived up to and exceeded all of my expectations.  I cannot describe how incredible the feeling is standing on such an impressive wall that stretches out as far as you can see in both directions. It is a really humbling experience, one that I will never forget. As I sat on top of the tallest tower in the Jinshangling section I reflected on just how impressive this wall really is. 

Most travel groups will arrange the entrance tickets (for the wall) as a part of the package fee you are paying them, but make sure that entrance tickets to both Simatai and Jinshanling are included if you plan to visit both sections.  When you are just about to cross over to the Simatai section there will be some workers that check for tickets before letting you pass. 

I highly recommend that you hike Simatai as well so you can cross this really awesome bridge (stunning view of the valley and a small river) as well as some pretty impressive watch towers with some more amazing views. Make sure to bring some good hiking shoes as this hike has some steep climbs in which the wall isn’t it the greatest condition. 

The beautiful natural surroundings, the more personal experience, and the less commercialized feel of Simatai and Jinshanling definitely make this one of my favorite places I’ve ever been too.  An absolute must-see!!

How to get there:

There are multiple ways to get to Jinshanling and Simatai. I recommend visiting The Beijinger’s website and have a look at the classified ads as tour groups are always organizing and advertising trips to these and other sections of the Great Wall.  Some groups can even arrange overnight trips for you.

You can also head to the Forbidden City to arrange a day trip.  There are tons of people that stand around in and around the ticketing area and will approach you asking if you want to take any number of pre-planned tour packages. They will also work with you to create your own individual tour or just simply hire a car for the day. Just make sure you agree to the price before you agree to use their services.  I prefer using The Beijinger as the people organizing the trips there are usually language schools and they have a better reputation and are easier to deal with.

Your hotel might also offer planned excursions to the Great Wall as well.  Contact the hotel concierge to see if they have any Great Wall packages.

Zhouzhuang – “The Venice of the East”

Zhouzhuang at night

Most tourists that visit Shanghai have probably never heard of a small water-village located just less than 80 km away from the city called Zhouzhuang.  This small city is famously known as the “Venice of the East” and any tourists planning a trip to Shanghai should definitely try to schedule at least one day to visit this ancient village.

Some gondolas in Zhouzhuang

Located just 30 km outside of Suzhou, Zhouzhuang can easily be accessed via Suzhou or Shanghai.  There are many water towns that surround the area but Zhouzhuang is the oldest and the most famous. Zhouzhuang is a popular tourist destination for Chinese tourists and is rapidly becoming more popular for foreigners.  When I first visited the city back in early 2009 my 2 friends and I were the only foreigners around.  On subsequent visits late last year and just this past month I have seen a lot more foreign tourists while visiting the town.

Beautiful Zhouzhuang

This is not necessarily a bad thing as many hostels and budget hotels have popped up inside the ancient village (by renovating old buildings) that has most of the amenities those of us in the West are accustomed to.  This makes an overnight trip to the city a must if you can afford the extra day. If you do plan on staying overnight I recommend staying at Longxing Inn because it’s in a great location (right on the main commercial street), the owners are friendly and accommodating, and the rooms are incredible cheap!

There are loads of attractions and places to visit within and around Zhouzhuang making it impossible to thoroughly enjoy them all during a day visit. If you purchase a roundtrip ticket from Shanghai you will arrive around 10:30 or 11:00 depending on traffic and your departure time. The bus then departs from Zhouzhuang between 4:30 and 5:00pm. If you do decide to stay overnight you can arrange with your bus driver to allow you to take his bus on the following day (you will need to pay an additional 30-40 RMB per person, which you will pay when you board the bust the following day).

One of the many bridges that can be found in Zhouzhuang

When you arrive the bus will drop you off at the second stop in the loading zone near the new development area (unless you are a part of a tour group you, which is the first stop).  The new development area (which was new when I first visited in 2009) is desolate and not very well maintained.  There isn’t much to see here, but before you head into the old village (which will require a 100 RMB entrance ticket; included in the roundtrip fare purchased in Shanghai) I recommend making a quick trip to Shen Wansen’s mansion.

Shen Wansen was a famous silk merchant who is largely credited with turning Suzhou and Zhouzhuang into a bustling merchant-based economy due to their convenient waterways.  His old mansion compound has been well maintained and restored throughout its long history and the price of admission is included in the price of the ticket to the ancient village.  His mansion serves as an excellent example of how the traditional Ming aristocracy lived.

Shen Wansen's Mansion

After popping in for a brief visit you can head on over to the old village to spend the rest of the afternoon. The village contains tons of narrow streets littered with souvenir shops, restaurants, and residences of famous residents of the past.  If you want to do some shopping please keep in mind that most of the products there are not hand-made like the shop owners would like you to believe.  Most of them are mass produced and can be found at multiple shops around the village.  A lot of shops will even have a half-painted picture sitting out in plain view near the entrance of the shop to give the illusion that their products are hand made by either the shop owner or someone who works there. At some point during the day I recommend a visit to the Quanfu Temple and the Confucian temple (if you have to choose one, make it Quanfu).

One of the entrances to the historic village

One of the downsides to the recent commercialization of Zhouzhuang is that the prices of everything are much higher than they used to be (the entrance tickets to the village used to be only 60 RMB). This doesn’t mean that you can’t get a good deal though.  After spending quite some time doing some serious haggling I was able to get a framed painting (large one at that too) for around 100 RMB.  If it’s later in the evening after most of the tourists are gone you can get even lower prices. Always be willing to walk away if you feel the price is too high.

I usually like to listen to what the Chinese tourists are offering for the souvenirs and paintings. Most shop owners assume that if you are a foreigner you can’t speak Chinese so ifZ you do, use this to your advantage.  If you are friendly to the shop owner and stand your ground, you can get quite a deal of anything in Zhouzhuang.

A pedestrian bridge near Quanfu Temple

If you do stay the night make sure to attend one of the several night performances that can be seen around the village. The different performances try to recreate some of the cultural activities and celebrations that have long been a part of Zhouzhuang’s cultural history.  There is even an evening performance in which tons of beautifully lit gondolas make their way along the canals of the village.

Overall I absolutely love the charm and culture of Zhouzhuang.  The close proximity of all the main attractions, the shopping, and cultural performances are what keep bringing me back again and again.  A lot of people will complain that the village has become too commercial and will opt to visit other water cities (which are lovely to visit as well, look for more posts on this in the future).  Whether you are looking for a quick day trip or an overnight trip Zhouzhuang is sure to please.

 

Quanfu Temple - Zhouzhuang

If China is lacking in any type of attraction, Buddhist temples definitely aren't one of them. Odds are that if you've been to China you've probably been to at least one of them.  Quanfu temple offers some unique scenery that definitely make it worth a visit no matter how many you might have visited before.


The beauty of Zhouzhuang is on full display within the Quanfu temple and definitely warrant the entrance fee.  There are a number of ponds and the temple also has that rustic water-town feel that makes Zhouzhuang so beautiful.  There are 2 main entrance gates that can be accessed; one near the famous white bridge that connects to the newer development (if you enter the temple from the other gate do not cross that bridge as it will take you out of the old village rendering your entrance ticket to the old village void), and the other on the northern part of the temple.

If you visit the temple towards the end of the operating hours (around 3 or 4) you can enjoy a more serene atmosphere.  During the morning (especially on weekends or holidays) there can be large groups of tourists and the compound can get quite crowded.  I usually like visiting these sites when they only have a few hours left before they close so I can get a more personal experience.

If you make your way around the west side of the compound you will find a beautiful pavilion out in the middle of the lake (that can be accessed from bridges on the north and south side) that offers a beautiful view of the temple compound.  The walkways in the compound are ornately designed and fit in with the general atmosphere.  The lush vegetation and beautiful gardens can provide a nice break from the narrow, crowded streets throughout the old village.

I've been to a lot of Buddhist temples since I've been in China and Quanfu is one of my favorite.  As a non-Buddhist, I appreciate being able to access them and get a glimpse into an important part of Chinese history and culture.  Definitely worth a visit!

Hours of operation: 8:30am - 5:00pm daily

Admission: Not included in the Old Village entrance ticket. Will update when ticket price is confirmed (I think it was around 20 RMB)

How to get there:
Enter Zhouzhuang Old Village and follow the signs to Quanfu Temple.

Yu Yuan Garden - Shanghai

Yu Yuan Garden

Shanghai’s Yu Yuan Garden, which traces its roots back to the Ming Dynasty during the mid 1500’s, is one of the largest and most elegant gardens in Shanghai.  During its long history it has been owned by numerous influential families and has since become one of the most popular tourist destinations in the city.

Conveniently located in Shanghai’s Old City (next to the City God temple), Yu Yuan Garden offers a nice, peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of the crowded Shanghai streets. I’ve been to Shanghai twice before moving here and it was only until after I moved here that I had a chance to actually visit the garden. I can say it is definitely worth scheduling some time to visit this beautiful landmark.

One of the many ponds in Yu Yuan

Yu Yuan Garden

One thing that really impressed me was just how remarkable it has been preserved despite being around for hundreds of years. There are so many beautiful ponds and old rustic Chinese buildings. Pan Yunduan first conceived the idea for the garden to serve as a peaceful place for his aging father to spend the remainder of his days. One cannot help but notice the attention to detail and the seeming care and thought that went into its design.  I would love to have a garden like this of my own!

The garden compound is much bigger than I had originally imagined, spanning a total area of roughly 5 acres.  The small portion of it that is visible from outside the main walls is quite deceptive. The garden weaves in and out of various corridors and pushes quite far back into the Old City area.  I definitely recommending setting aside at least 2 hours so you don’t feel like you need to rush through it.

Intricate dragon sculpture

As you wind through the various corridors you are treated to a variety of different shaped widows and loads of intricately detailed sculptures that adorn the walls and rooftops of the buildings.  Some of the walls have incredibly large and detailed dragon heads (the curvy shaped walls that separate the different sections resemble a dragon’s body) that converge at some of the larger entryways.

If you are a fan of gardens or traditional Chinese architecture you must visit this place. Well worth the entrance fee! I also recommend visiting the famous HuXingTing Tea House (located near the main entrance of the garden) after visiting the garden for a delicious cup of tea and a nice view before heading out for your next adventure.

HuXingTing Tea House

How to get there:

Cab – Tell the driver to take you to Yu Yuan (豫园in Chinese). He should drop you off somewhere on the southern side of Old City. Just head into the Old City and look for the iconic HuXingTing Tea House (pictured below) and the entrance is located on the north side.

Subway – Take line 10 and get off on the Yu Yuan (豫园in Chinese) stop.  Head towards Old City and the entrance to the garden is near the HuXingTing Tea House.

Cost of admission: 30-40 RMB per ticket (depending on the season)

Hours of Operation: Daily from 8:30am until 5:30pm (last tickets sold at 5pm)

Have you been to Yu Yuan before? If so tell us about it in the comments below!

Old Town 老城市 － Shanghai

Old Town during Chinese New Year '09

Shanghai’s Old Town, 老城市 (lao cheng shi) in Chinese, is an extremely popular tourist area in downtown Puxi (not far from the bund) that offers a glimpse into what Shanghai might have looked like in the 1920’s and 1930’s. The area is littered with hundreds of tiny souvenir shops, restaurants, jewelry shops, the famous Yu Yuan garden, and even two historic temples (both the temples and Yu Yuan garden will be covered in other posts).  Old town is another one of Shanghai’s attractions that should not be missed by anyone planning on visiting this metropolis.

Once you arrive you might feel overwhelmed with the number of different directions you can take, and my advice is simply, pick one direction and go.  Aside from the typical tourist-trap souvenir shops there are a number of really cool shops that sell some truly unique souvenirs that you can’t find anywhere else.  Upon my last visit, my wife and I came across a shop that sells tons of anime themed merchandise at pretty reasonable prices. Be warned however that there are A LOT of people that try to recruit customers to shop at hidden stores that sell “grey market” goods. They can be annoyingly persistent so be prepared.

The Famous Huxingting Tea House

There are also a number of Chinese tea shops that offer a variety of traditional teas that range from fairly inexpensive prices to the absolute ridiculous.  The price will largely depend on the type and quality. With tea, this is one thing you do not want to skimp on, as the cheaper teas can have a lot of harmful ingredients and just taste awful.  The tea can be purchased in its normal processed state, or it can be purchased as intricately designed “flowering” buds.  The flowering ones are usually on display and make excellent gifts.

The most famous tea house in the area is the Laoxingting Tea House, nestled in the middle of a scenic pond with bridges connecting it on both ends. This tea house has a history spanning hundreds of years and the tea is of excellent quality.  This also means you will be paying a much higher price for similar tea that can be found in other tea shops nearby.

Old Town at Dusk

After you’ve had your fill of shopping and sightseeing make sure to stop by the two temples and Yu Yuan garden. All of these attractions are well worth the small entrance fees and provide an excellent look into traditional Chinese philosophies and architecture. I highly recommend visiting this place both during the day and at night. All of the other attractions in the area close relatively early (at around 5pm) All of the buildings have beautiful red lanterns and are decorated with loads of lights.

Old Town at Dusk

To finish off the day you can pay a visit to an extremely delicious hot pot restaurant (which will be reviewed in the near future), or the ever-delicious Din Tai Fung restaurant, and then pay a visit to the Bund to get a spectacular view of Pu Dong.

Have you been to Shanghai's Old City? Sound off in the comments below and let us know what you thought!

How to get there:

• Cab - The easiest way to get to Old City is to find a taxi and simply tell the driver you want to be taken to Yu Yuan 豫园 (or just simply show the driver the Chinese characters) as this is within the Old City area. 
• Subway – you can also take line 10 and get off at the Yu Yuan station.

Din Tai Fung - Shanghai Restaurant Review

"Patiently" Awaiting My Feast

If you are visiting Shanghai and looking to taste some of the local delicacies, xiaolong bao (a type of dumpling) should definitely be on your checklist of things to eat.  This delectable dish has long been a favorite of locals and expats alike, and most people agree that the best in the city can be found at Din Tai Fung.

There are 7 branches scattered throughout Shanghai, and this review is for the Xin Tian Di location.  The restaurant is located on the second story of a high end shopping mall in the famous Xin Tian Di area. Xin Tian Di is a very high end district and has long been a popular place for expats and some of the more affluent locals.  There are plenty of high end boutiques and shops to visit in the area surrounding the restaurant so it makes for a nice way to spend an afternoon.

As far as Chinese restaurants are concerned this is definitely up-scale.  The decorations, booths, and the staff attire all help create a warm and pleasant atmosphere.  The walls are all covered with murals of famous Chinese actors and musicians with their autographs (not sure if they are real).  The main part of the restaurant has a very open feel and the kitchen wall that separates the dining area and the kitchen is a giant window. Feel free to spend a few minutes watching the chefs prepare your meal after you’ve ordered.

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Beautiful Presentation

The menu is pretty large and the prices high (I can imagine rent in this area is off the charts), but the scrumptiousness of the food certainly makes up for it.  There are loads of different dumplings (all of which are steamed) to choose from all filled with various toppings.  You can also get soups, fried rice, and dessert. 

We chose the standard pork xiaolong bao, the mini xiaolong bao, the truffle xiaolong bao, a bowl of wonton soup, Pork and glutinous rice shao-mai, cooked sugar pea shoots, and chilled coconut milk with assorted fresh fruit for dessert. It wasn’t a long wait before the first dishes started to arrive, presented in the bamboo steamers they were cooked in. I couldn’t wait to try the dish that the restaurant became famous for, the pork xiaolong bao.

They were simply amazing! The beauty of the xiaolong bao is that it’s shape, and the fact that it is sealed, doesn’t allow any of the juices to escape, thus retaining the flavor of the meat.  Each dumpling explodes in your mouth giving your tongue a bath in delicious pork juices. I personally felt the flavor of the dumpling by itself was enough, but if you wish you can dip them in soy sauce, black vinegar, spicy chili-paste, or any combination you can cook up.

Pork Xiaolong Bao

The only bad part of this dish is that it only came with 5 (you can order the larger portion which comes with 10), which of course I had to share. This is why I’m glad I ordered the mini xiao long bao.  They taste just as amazing as their larger counterparts and go perfect in the wonton soup.  The soup is a clean chicken broth and the delicious pork wontons perfectly absorb the broth. 

Then came the glutinous rice and pork shao-mai, the cooked sugar pea shoots, and the truffle and pork xiao long bao.  The vegetables were pretty good but a bit oily so if you are looking for something a bit lighter you might be better off trying something else. The truffle and pork xiaolong bao were very good but extremely rich.  My wife doesn’t like truffle so I had to tackle the whole dish. Normally I wouldn’t complain about this but they were too rich, even for my tastes.  If you absolutely love truffle you will probably have no problem downing the entire order, but I was only able to eat a couple of them.

We Got Dumplings for Days!

The glutinous rice and pork shao-mai was the only dish I didn’t care for on this particular visit.  They were bland and dry, which is a stark contrast to the juicy flavorful xiaolong bao.  Maybe they weren’t cooked properly, as I’ve never had shao-mai before, but I know I will not be ordering them again at this restaurant.

For dessert we shared a bowl of chilled coconut milk with a variety of fresh fruit. This was a splendid way to finish the meal.  The sweet creamy coconut milk was a nice refreshing treat, and can be an excellent way to cool down in the extreme heat that Shanghai has during the summer.

Overall I was extremely satisfied with the meal, even though it commanded a much higher price than your average Chinese food restaurant in Shanghai.  If you’ve never had xiaolong bao before and are looking to give it a try, why not go for the best.  The staff was extremely friendly and the service was superb! I highly recommend Din Tai Fung! Check Din Tai Fung’s website for locations and hours of operation.

Rating:

Price: $$$

Value: 3/5

Taste: 4.5/5

Service: 4/5

Selection: 3/5