Wednesday, June 20, 2012

The Great Wall of China - Jinshanling and Simatai

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One of the main highlights of any vacation in China is undoubtedly the Great Wall of China.  The wall, which became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987 and one of the 7 Ancient Wonders of the World, attracts millions of visitors each year.  The wall was originally thought to be 5,500 miles long and after a recent effort to confirm its length the number has actually more than doubled to 13,171 miles long.

In an effort to preserve the wall and attract more tourists the government has approved various sections of the wall to undergo restoration projects.  These restored parts of the wall offer a glimpse into what the wall might have looked like when it was being actively used to keep Mongolian raiders outside of the country.

The most famous of these sections is Badaling which also happens to be the most visited portion of the wall. While this is certainly a great experience, I feel that the experiences at some of the more remote and less commercialized are much more valuable.  Badaling is packed with tourists and you will constantly be surrounded by people unless you hike well out of the way.  By contrast a visit to Jinshanling and Simatai will be a much more personal experience (although this may not be the case in a few years as more and more people are choosing to visit this section each year).

When I first visited back in November of 2008 the group of friends I was traveling with were the only visitors on the wall that we say for the vast majority of the day.  My most recent trip in October of last year was still very much a personal experience but there were noticeably more tourists here than my first visit.

What makes the Great Wall such a great experience is that there is no perfect season to visit it. Each season offers a unique experience and beauty which changes as the year progresses. If you are able to visit Simatai and Jinshanling make sure you dedicate an entire day to it. The hike is long but worth it as you make your way up and down the mountainous terrain passing from watchtower to watchtower.

If I had one complaint about this section is that as more and more tourists have visited some of the local farmers have taken to selling souvenirs and t-shirts (With “I climbed the Great Wall” written across the chest). It wouldn’t be so annoying if they didn’t follow you along the hike for what seems like an eternity. They are relentless, and it doesn’t get any better if you buy something from one of them. If you buy something from one, all of the others will think they will be able to sell you something as well and will NEVER leave you alone.

Although you can buy snacks and bottled water at the little touristy village at the start of Jinshanling (at much higher prices than if you buy them in Beijing before you head out), I recommend that you bring plenty of bottled water and some snacks with you as it is easy to get dehydrated out there.  I did notice that some farmers have posted up in a few of the watchtowers along the way and will sell you drinks at exponentially higher prices (but if you are looking for a cold beer in the middle of nowhere, where else are you going to go, right?).

When choosing how to get to the wall I would take some time to ask the travel agency a few questions.  For my first visit I went with a small language school that I was taking classes from (The Hutong School).  This was wonderful because we arranged our own transportation and operated on our own schedule. We were out there as long as we wanted and were in no pressure to hurry our way along the wall. 

For my second visit I went with a travel group from one of the famous hostels located on Nanluoguxiang. The other people we were with were friendly enough (made friends with some pretty cool guys from Poland) but the tour guide was rushing us the entire way. It was much harder to really enjoy some of the beautiful panoramic sights that are to be had from the tallest watchtowers.  Just make sure you ask the travel agency how long you will have to be on the wall and if there is a set time that you have to meet at the pickup point.

Visiting the Great Wall has been a childhood dream of mine and I can wholeheartedly say that it lived up to and exceeded all of my expectations.  I cannot describe how incredible the feeling is standing on such an impressive wall that stretches out as far as you can see in both directions. It is a really humbling experience, one that I will never forget. As I sat on top of the tallest tower in the Jinshangling section I reflected on just how impressive this wall really is. 

Most travel groups will arrange the entrance tickets (for the wall) as a part of the package fee you are paying them, but make sure that entrance tickets to both Simatai and Jinshanling are included if you plan to visit both sections.  When you are just about to cross over to the Simatai section there will be some workers that check for tickets before letting you pass. 

I highly recommend that you hike Simatai as well so you can cross this really awesome bridge (stunning view of the valley and a small river) as well as some pretty impressive watch towers with some more amazing views. Make sure to bring some good hiking shoes as this hike has some steep climbs in which the wall isn’t it the greatest condition. 

The beautiful natural surroundings, the more personal experience, and the less commercialized feel of Simatai and Jinshanling definitely make this one of my favorite places I’ve ever been too.  An absolute must-see!!

How to get there:
There are multiple ways to get to Jinshanling and Simatai. I recommend visiting The Beijinger’s website and have a look at the classified ads as tour groups are always organizing and advertising trips to these and other sections of the Great Wall.  Some groups can even arrange overnight trips for you.

You can also head to the Forbidden City to arrange a day trip.  There are tons of people that stand around in and around the ticketing area and will approach you asking if you want to take any number of pre-planned tour packages. They will also work with you to create your own individual tour or just simply hire a car for the day. Just make sure you agree to the price before you agree to use their services.  I prefer using The Beijinger as the people organizing the trips there are usually language schools and they have a better reputation and are easier to deal with.

Your hotel might also offer planned excursions to the Great Wall as well.  Contact the hotel concierge to see if they have any Great Wall packages.







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